Equipment Archives

The Great Snorkel Debate: Should You Wear a Snorkel When Scuba Diving?

Should divers wear a snorkel while scuba diving?

Summary: One of the great debates in the diving industry is whether or not to wear a snorkel when recreational scuba diving. In technical diving it is unanimous not to wear snorkels, but in recreational diving there are two camps and there are certainly pro’s and con’s on both sides of the camp. However, the debate has a bit of a bite to it. Many are quite judgmental to the people who disagree with their position. In this unique article not only will we look at the top points for and against wearing the snorkel while scuba diving, we will also look at the pro’s and con’s of each point. We will also look at considerations not often mentioned – considerations that are overarching rather than scenario-dependant.

THE “YES” TO WEARING A SNORKEL WHILE SCUBA DIVING CAMP
We will start here since this has been the diving industries’ historic position on training standards and equipment requirements for recreational divers.
POINT 1: The snorkel is good for surface swimming pre or post dive as it conserves air from the tank.
PRO: This is true as it will conserve air in the tank. This also lets you see underwater while you’re swimming, which can aid in orienting and direction. It is ideal when you need to keep your eye on something underwater while swimming at the surface. Using the snorkel keeps that uninterrupted vision by keeping your face continuously submerged. The snorkel is good for long surface swims in easy conditions where you would like to see underwater while you are swimming.
CON: But, the amount of tank air conserved needs to be measured against conditions, distance and time. At the surface (1ATA) the amount of air we breathe from the tank is quite small, as compared to the increased density of air consumed at depth. For a short and simple surface swim, breathing from the regulator may not have much effect on air supply at all. However, if there is a strong current or if the surface swimming distance traveled is long (let’s say 5 minutes or longer), then the amount of air used from the tank may be a factor and the snorkel may be a better option. However, note that if the conditions are causing heavy breathing at the surface using a snorkel, this could be worsened by the “dead air” space (residual CO2 that remains in a snorkel after exhalation) that continues to be breathed in keeping the diver’s CO2 levels high, thus increasing respiration. Also, if the surface conditions are rough, it may be better on the diver to abandon the snorkel swim and slightly descend and continue the swim underwater using the regulator. This will cut down on the exhaustion that may set in from surface swimming in large waves. Another con is the drift diving scenario when surface swimming up to a boat with its engines running. I will often wait at the surface using my snorkel, but when the boat approaches, that nasty taste of diesel exhaust makes me switch right away to my regulator and breathe the regulator the whole time I am waiting my turn to get out – as a dive professional, I am always the last one out of the water for whatever group I am supervising, (see FILO article) so that would be a long time to sit with a snorkel breathing exhaust.

POINT 2: The snorkel is essential for surface swimming if the tank has no air.
PRO: It’s true that we can’t breathe off the regulator if the tank has no air. So, when maintaining a face-down surface swim, the snorkel is the best method. I watched a diver with no air and no snorkel perform a surface search for his buddy who was still underwater. He followed his buddy trying to get his buddy’s attention. For ten minutes he swam at the surface lifting up his head every time he needed to breathe. He came back on the boat with a raging hypercapnia headache caused by such high levels of CO2 for such a long period of time. The snorkel would have helped greatly.
CON: Let’s consider this question… is swimming face-down on the surface while wearing full scuba the most efficient surface swimming position? Hmm. Many instructors, myself included, like to teach all levels of students that a faster and more efficient method to surface swim while wearing scuba is to swim on your back. This method rarely works with a snorkel. Most divers with a positively buoyant BC are easily able to swim on their backs while maintaining a controlled airway even in waves – as now the airway is above the water line instead of under it.

POINT 3: It is a safety tool, there when you need it.
PRO: By wearing the snorkel during a dive, it is immediately available when needed at the surface. The scenarios of having it immediately at the ready are subjects of discussion as there are nearly endless scenarios to consider.
CON: But, by wearing the snorkel during a dive, can all the con’s that we will see below outweigh the pro’s of having it readily available? The con side really does not see many “needs” for the snorkel that could trump all the con’s. And those who see merit to both pro and con sides of the point of “it is a safety tool, there when you need it” often jump to the “collapsible” or “folding” snorkel. (See “THE HYBRID” below.)

THE “NO” TO WEARING A SNORKEL WHILE SCUBA DIVING CAMP
POINT 1: It tugs on the mask and is unwieldy in a current.
PRO: In a strong current a snorkel may wobble, tug and pull on the mask strap. This can cause the mask to leak and/or flood completely. The wobbling snorkel may be a nuisance as it moves and bumps equipment or one’s head.
CON: It is not fair to generalize this point as the design of the snorkel relates greatly to how much it will wobble, tug and pull in a current. The more streamlined the design and the closer it is worn to the head dramatically reduces the snorkel’s profile in the water. Plus, a slight tilt or turn of the head changes the hydrodynamics of the water rushing by one’s head and can also reduce the resistance of water flowing by the snorkel.

POINT 2: It can easily get caught or entangled.
PRO: Having over a foot of plastic attached to the side of a diver’s head could be an object that gets bumped, caught or entangled. The snorkel can get caught in throw/tag lines, current lines, down lines and reel lines. It is also possible to get caught in other objects like monofilament line or on hoses when doing BC removal and replacement. In overhead environments such as caverns, caves and wrecks students are emphatically taught not to wear snorkels for this very reason.
CON: Many pieces of equipment we wear underwater protrude slightly off our person. What makes the snorkel that much different than the tank valve and first stage, the hoses, fins, gauges, etc.? Proper training and experience allows for the diver to accommodate for those items. We do what we can to minimize them (danglies) and we work with and around them. Those who have worn snorkels for a very long time have a great sense of their presence and rarely have an entanglement situation with their snorkels.

POINT 3: It gets in the way during a dive.
PRO: My most recent rescue class had a student who went to put her Air II in her mouth during an air sharing exercise, and as she brought it up to her mouth the snorkel mouthpiece came up on top of it! She put the wrong mouthpiece in and took in quite a gulp of water. This is a classic example of the snorkel really getting in the way in what could have been a drastic level. Sometimes the snorkel can be uncomfortable as it is hanging down next to the face and neck. This can be very distracting during a dive.
CON: Again, the profile of the snorkel and how it is worn has a lot to do with the comfort of wearing the snorkel. Most seasoned snorkel wearers have become very accustomed to the snorkel and do not perceive it as a nuisance. It is just another piece of equipment on their profile to which they know how to use and are aware of.

THE HYBRID: “HAVING” A SNORKEL INSTEAD OF “WEARING” A SNORKEL
One solution that both camps often agree on is the use of a “collapsible” or “folding” snorkel. Several brands exist wherein the snorkel can be folded up and carried either in a BC pocket or attached to the BC during the dive, then deployed and attached to the mask strap at the surface when needed.
PRO: This seems to be the best of both worlds. It is not worn while underwater scuba diving, and it is there when you need it at the surface. It also works towards many training agency standards that call for a diving professional to carry a snorkel when teaching or supervising a dive.
CON: Although their flexible design works for storage, some can bend in surface currents/waves and squeeze down upon a strong inhalation. When you think of times when the snorkel may be needed, there is a strong chance that heavy breathing will accompany its use. To have a snorkel that restricts airflow, even slightly, leads to high CO2 levels and is also extremely frustrating. These folding snorkels can function as a snorkel in ideal conditions, but do they function well in robust situations? Not really. Many people give them good reviews for what they accomplish in theory, but when really used and put to the test they often come up short.

LET’S TAKE A TIMEOUT: THE GREATER ISSUES AT-HAND
So we looked at many points, and the pro’s and con’s of those points. As you can see scenarios really dictate the need to wear or not to wear a snorkel. But we are missing bigger issues. For this I must stand atop my soapbox…
SOAPBOX POINT #1: We need to take a look at the modern-day snorkels hanging in dive centers everywhere. They are huge! With their ultra-hyper-uber-dry features they come with literal “domes” on top. To make it so they get rid of water easily they have large purge assemblies under the mouthpiece. To make it so they move out of the way when used with a regulator they add corrugation to allow the mouthpiece to drop away. To make this large contraption fit on a mask strap, there needs to be a large keeper assembly. With all of these conveniences comes lots of plastic. This makes snorkels longer, heavier and bulkier. When I wear these, I want to end my dive, ignore the divemaster’s briefing on what to put in a marine toilet, and flush them down the head! The modern snorkel has, in my opinion, become ridiculous because of point two…
SOAPBOX POINT #2: We’re getting lazy! It is truly not hard to clear a snorkel – and I mean ones with no purge valves. But instead we’ve relied on technology to design an easier product. But that design has had a backlash as more and more divers are recognizing all the negatives to wearing these monstrosities while diving and they’re simply ditching their snorkels. And since many scuba classes downplay snorkeling so very much, the certified diver is often uncomfortable and not proficient with the snorkel to begin with (yet it was required to buy for their class).

Sure technical diving is blending into recreational diving, but that is not the main reason for this large-scale rejection of the snorkel. For these reasons above it is no surprise why divers of the last ten years are shying away from wearing snorkels and why this is such an area of great debate.

I am fond of low-profile, simple J-design snorkels – such as freediving type snorkels. I am also completely proficient in their use. That combination of user proficiency and low profile design allows me to comfortably and skillfully scuba dive with my snorkel in place.

Ah, to wear a snorkel, or not wear a snorkel… that is the question.

How to Select the Best Dive Shop

By Tec Clark 4 Comments

The look and feel of a dive shop should exude the culture of diving and have a passionate, excited staff.

When deciding where to take a scuba class, purchase or service dive equipment, or going on a group dive trip, the local dive shop (LDS) remains divers’ favorite choice of service delivery. Here we will explain in detail the areas to consider when selecting the best dive shop with which to affiliate.

There are definitely some things to look for when selecting a class, dive shop, and/or a scuba instructor. It can be broken down into three distinct areas to evaluate, thus it is worthy of three separate articles which I have written. Let’s take a look at each of these areas of consideration:
A. How to Select a Scuba Diving Class
B. How to Select a Dive Shop
C. How to Select a Scuba Instructor

HOW TO SELECT A DIVE SHOP
Let’s look at what makes a dive shop a dive shop. But first let me address an area of political correctness. A push was made in the diving industry to use the name “dive center” instead of “dive shop”. Research showed that the name “dive shop” had a small, rustic, mom-and-pop feel, and that a “dive center” was conducive to an upper class, professional business with more offerings. So, some agencies deem dive shops “Full Service Dive Centers” if they meet a plethora of criteria, and even give them ratings. However, search engine reporting shows that “dive shop” is still the most preferred title to refer to a brick-and-mortar dive retail business. So, I will use dive shop with no intent to diminish you dive stores, dive centers, or dive centre if you are British (fabulous wedding by the way).

Here are the main areas of business for dive shops:

Scuba Instruction – Since you have read “How to Select a Scuba Diving Class” you now have an appreciation for some of the items necessary to take a scuba class. Most scuba training takes place in conjunction with dive shops. Even if you take a private scuba class with an independent diving instructor, chances are you will be visiting a dive shop that your instructor works with.
Equipment Purchasing – The dive shop is an integral part of your future as a diver. You will visit your local dive shop when it comes time purchase your gear. This is especially important since fit and comfort are key criteria for your equipment selection. At a dive shop you will be able to try on multiple sizes and styles, under the expert care of a dive retail professional, to pick the items perfect for you.
Equipment Servicing – The dive shop is where you go to have your tanks filled. The more you dive, the more air fills you need. This keeps a steady relationship between you and the dive shop. It is also the place that you will bring in your equipment to be serviced – annual inspections of your regulator and tanks, and every five years for the tank hydrostatic testing. Plus, if you have a repair need, they are the place to get those repairs fixed properly as scuba equipment repair requires specialized training and certification.
Dive Travel – Tons of training and tons of equipment will not matter if you don’t dive! The dive shop is the hub of diving activities – especially dive travel. Whether it’s local or halfway around the world, your dive shop offers special dive travel opportunities to keep you wet and enjoying the sport. Dive travel is what it’s all about, exploring various locations each with their own unique conditions and marine life.

SELECTION TIPS

Ask Around – You probably have lots of friends who are divers. Ask them. A simple inquiry to your friends on Facebook should reveal many suggestions of shops, both good and bad. Your looking for your friends’ actual experiences not rumors. Remember, just like a restaurant review, experiences and opinions may vary from person to person. But, if people are giving consistent reviews, chances are they are accurate.

Tec’s Tips:
– Ask what they like and dislike about the dive shop.
– Ask what they go there for the most.
– Ask if they have a favorite employee or instructor.

Internet Research – Take each of the areas above (dive travel, scuba instruction, etc.) and explore them on the dive shop’s website. If the site looks like a ninth-grade computer project, be suspect. That is clearly a sign of owners who do not understand their consumers’ needs. Scuba diving is a wonderful combination of fun and safety. Safety is in the details. So, good dive shops will have websites that are fun and engaging, and at the same time detailed and full of information. NOTE: Don’t be discouraged if a dive shop does not post the prices of classes. That is a detail that many dive shops would rather have you call about so that they can tell you in detail what the class includes. The reason for this goes back to our first article, “How to Select a Scuba Diving Class”, as some dive shops post ridiculously low class prices yet have hidden costs. Most people don’t know how to do true class comparisons (like you now know how to do), so many dive shops want you to call for pricing. That is a good thing.

Tec’s Tips:
– Do you get a good and excited feeling about diving when you visit their website? Do they look like they embody the scuba lifestyle? Those are also good traits to look for when doing internet research.
– Go to the About Us section of their website. You should have a clear snapshot of the employees and instructors with their bio’s. Do they look professional and have professional credentials, yet exude a passion for diving? That is what you want. I shy away from dive shops that are not proud to show their most important asset; their people. If they don’t showcase their staff, it could mean they have massive turnover of staff or they have folks with mediocre credentials. The opposite could happen too. If the About Us section reveals only men who have mostly uber-technical credentials (cave, cavern, deep air, mixed gas, etc.). That could be a niche dive shop and may not be the right place for your family to become recreational divers. I am generalizing, so just use common sense, and you will get a good feel for what the dive shop is all about.

Great dive shops have great customer service

Site Visit – This is hands-down the best way to evaluate a dive shop. Don’t be intimidated if you are a non-diver. Go there! As a non-diver you should leave the dive shop wanting to take your lessons yesterday! The people, the atmosphere, the equipment, the visuals, should make you feel like you have stepped into what diving is all about. A diving culture should be present and intense.

Tec’s Tips:
– How is the visual appeal? It should be somewhat overwhelming, but not chaotic. You want a nice layout with a good amount of products that makes you want to explore them. You should get the clear impression that this shop truly specializes in their sport.
– How is the customer service? This is a big one. You want to be greeted and you want them to ask questions about you. Within a couple minutes they should know you are a non-diver interested in taking scuba lessons. And they should be GENUINELY EXCITED for your interest. Notice also how they are helping other people, see if there is a class going on, or notice them selling equipment or filling tanks. These occurrences are what you will be going through, so you should like what you are seeing.
– Try to meet your instructor. If you can, this is a wonderful thing to do. For what to look for in your instructor see the next article, “How to Select a Scuba Instructor”.
– What professional image does the shop have? Is it clean? Would you trust the employees to fit you for life support equipment or take you underwater? Do you get the impression that safety is important to them? You will be amazed at how keen your sense of this is even though you are a soon-to-be-diver.

WHAT TO AVOID
As a former scuba training/certification agency director I had the opportunity to visit many dive shops nationally and abroad. Most were very good, but a few were not so good. One shop in particular, I will never forget. Immediately upon entering the small shop there was an old pizza box open on top of the glass display counter; a wastebasket overflowing with beer bottles; a smelly dog with white hair; the dog’s white hair was all over the un-vacuumed blue carpet and even on some of the retail diving equipment; the two owners were both smoking cigarettes; they shared a large, full ashtray also on top of the glass display counter; the shop and all the equipment reeked of smoke and dog. I was there to investigate a quality assurance complaint. Naturally.

AGENCY AFFILIATION
Remember from the first article that there are many scuba training/certification agencies. What can also help you make your dive shop selection can be the status a shop may have with an agency. Some of the larger scuba training/certification agencies have standards for their sanctioned “dive centers”. And, again, they may have ratings or titles given to those dive shops with scales of gold, silver, platinum, palms, stars, or diamonds just to name a few. But what is helpful to know is that a dive shop that displays their “Dive Center Status” with an agency has had to be evaluated to the standards of that agency. They have been measured on air purification standards, equipment inventory, class offerings, service & repair, regular hours, proper business licenses, and no quality assurance or standards violations. These are all important areas that you may not see, so it is nice to know that the agency has inspected all that annually for you.

Finally, as a modern-day consumer you know what you want when it comes to how to be treated, and how a place and its people make you feel. Visit as many dive shops as you can to get the best comparisons, then go with your gut feeling. By following the tips in this article, chances are you will make the right decision.

Now read “How to Select a Scuba Instructor”

How to Make a Dive Pro’s Dry Bag aka Go Kit

By Tec Clark 1 Comment

For many dive pro’s working at resorts or dive centers, the ability to grab their equipment and go quickly is of importance. But it’s not only the gear bag that needs to be ready to go, it’s also the pro’s dry bag! Here we will explore the essentials of the dive professional’s “Go-Kit”.

Watch on YouTube: How to Make a Dive Pro’s “Go-Kit”

It never fails, right when you settle into your day a colleague tells you about his sinus infection (in graphic detail) and asks if you can take over his class, or work the boat, or guide the dive for the couple from New York. We have become quite good at having our equipment packed and ready to go in just a couple steps, but we often overlook the ever important dry bag AKA the “Go-Kit”. We say “As long as it has _____ in it I’m good. Well, and ____ would be good too. Oh, and _____ is important to have in there as well…” So, let’s look at how you can create your own “Go-Kit” that will enhance your preparedness to lead a dive or class. For your convenience I have selected the items in my personal Go-Kit for you to purchase at great prices through Amazon. Of course you can also get many of them at your dive center.

First, we need the right item to carry everything in:

Backpack – go with a solid construction design of sturdy zippers, multiple pockets, outer tie-downs and a durable material. It should be big enough to hold what you need, yet small enough to fit in the sometimes small dry spaces on a boat. I’m a big fan of compartmentalizing, so multiple pockets are nice for organizing. Outer tie downs are great for wet towels, bathing suits and rash guards. My personal pick is the PADI Backpack as it has all the space needs, it is well made, and it is inexpensive. However, there are many great backpacks that will fit this need.

Let’s look at all the other items by compartment:

MAIN COMPARTMENT

Clipboard – We have so much paperwork! Releases, medicals, rosters, etc. We need to keep it all dry and together. My favorite clipboard is the Officemate Slim Clipboard Storage Box It has a clipboard on the top panel, but then opens up to store your papers neatly. It has a good tight locking mechanism and it has another separate section to store pens and pencils.

First Aid Kit – For most of our diving applications off charter boats or in supervised pools there will be access to a first aid kit. But there are great advantages to having one on you at all times. I keep a DAN Guardian Diver First Aid Kit (631-2600) in my go-kit. It is small, lightweight, and has all the essentials.

Binoculars – A binocular is a great tool for supervising dives. We can use it for spotting divers’ bubbles, assessing the situation for divers giving a distress signal, and getting the name of a boat to hail them on the radio telling them they are too close to our divers’ flags – just to name a few. But when selecting binoculars we need to remember the conditions and purposes for use. We are not birdwatching! Instead, we are on a moving boat or a shore looking out over a large area of water. Too much magnification and we can easily miss what we need to look for. I like binoculars that are zoomable – I can keep it broad and then zoom in when I find what I’m looking for. You also want these things to be compact. Waterproof marine binoculars are big and cost hundreds of dollars, great for boat captains, but not so much for you. Go simple, compact and inexpensive. I recommend the Bushnell Powerview 8×21 Compact Folding Binocular Its power range is good for dive supervision needs, it comes with a case and is under $20.

Dive Reel – I can’t say enough about the need to have a reel in your go-kit. They have tons of practical uses from distance measurements, to marking, to safety stops with dive “sausages”, to search patterns, etc. One thing that is a must for your reel is to pre-loop the end and then add measurement marks to the line. You can do this with a permanent marker and tape measurer. What method of marking you use is entirely up to you. I mark my reel in 10 foot increments. I’m a fan of the Dive-Rite 140 ft Cavern/Safety Reel , either the standard or the Sidewinder, with 140’ line. It has a stainless bolt snap and the lock nut screw is metal, not plastic – a really nice improvement over their early models.

Compass – Many pro’s have their compass built into their gauge assembly. However, there is merit to having a wrist-mount compass in your go-kit. The wrist-mount compass is portable and goes with you. It stays on your arm when you have your hands full. You can pass it off to others in time of need, and is ideal for top-side search patterns when snorkeling. There are many on the market, I recommend you get one that fits you comfortable and is easy to read and use. The less profile (less bulky) the better. And make sure it has a side window.

Pocket Mask – If you get the DAN Guardian First Aid Kit mentioned above, it comes with an oronasal resuscitation mask (AKA pocket mask). However, if you don’t or you are relying on the safety equipment of the boat or lifeguard stations, I want to encourage you to at least have a pocket mask in your go-kit. I keep pocket masks everywhere – in my first aid kit, oxygen kit, gear bag, go-kit and even in my BC. Remember, since our sport is a water-based aquatic sport with multiple maladies cause by water and/or pressure, our maladies often have lots of nastiness (that’s a technical term) coming from the respiratory tracts of mouth and nose. A pocket mask is essential to your safety, plus it is the best delivery for supplemental oxygen to a non-breathing diver when you hook it up to your constant flow on your oxygen unit. I recommend the DAN Oronasal Resuscitation Mask and I recommend having more than one!

Safety Sausage – Of course we keep signal tubes (AKA safety sausages) on or in our BC’s when diving. But I also keep one in my go-kit. This comes in handy when needing to mark an area quickly like attaching your reel to it and throwing it in after an object has been dropped in the water. You can use it to mark a line, an underwater feature, as a drift signal for drifting decompression/safety stops. Note: a signal tube does not replace a dive flag. It is also a nice marker for shore entry and exit points. With so many uses and its ability to roll up into a small package I keep one in my go-kit. There are many on the market and if you are in some heavy technical diving applications do your research and go with a very robust and tall marker. But for dive supervision at the divemaster or instructor level, the one in your go-kit can be simple and functional. For this purpose I like the Innovative Scuba Concepts 45 inch Scuba Diving Dive Signal Tube with Inflator .

Dive Tool – The dive tool is a part of most of our save-a-dive kits. You could keep a full save-a-dive kit in your go-kit or in your gear bag. But when we dance around between the boat, the pool, the lake, the beach, etc. we want to be self-sufficient lest we forget items and then we are at a loss for helping the dive with minor equipment needs. I personally keep my save-a-dive kit in my gear bag, but I like keeping my dive tool in my go-kit. It has less chance of corroding. Wherever you decide to keep your dive tool is up to you, it is more about having one that will make your life easier when needed. I like the Storm Multi-Function Dive Tool but there are many others on the market that will do the trick too.

Whistle – As a pro we are required to carry an audible and visual signaling device (agency standards may vary) on our person when diving. For just a few bucks more have another whistle in your go-pack. It is a great back up, and you can use it in case of need when topside and dry. I go with the ever so popular Original Fox 40 Classic Whistle. This whistle is designed to work when wet – important for us. Plus, it delivers a powerful sound.

Water Bottle – I know, your thinking why would you talk about water bottles for your go-kit? Well, after numerous trials I identified a bottle that I really like and perhaps you can benefit from its functionality too. I have the CamelBak BPA-Free Better Bottle with Classic Cap . There are many reasons I like this. First, get away from bringing throw-away plastic water bottles on your dives. We really need to practice what we preach about environmental concerns for our oceans. Go with one reusable bottle for your go-kit. This is modeling great eco-friendly behavior to other divers and your students. The Camelbak Better Bottle is BPA free, it holds one liter and it is tall and narrow which fits nicely in your backpack. I like the classic cap because the others with the spouts and tubes are just more to go wrong – and what can I say – I’m a purist, I go for simple and functional!

Towel, Swim Suit, Dry Clothes – With all the things mentioned above you should still have room for your personal items, especially if you go with the PADI backpack mentioned above.

SIDE POCKET 1 (LEFT OR RIGHT)

Pens, Pencils & Highlighters – I keep an assortment of each in a container in my side pocket. We often need multiple pens for the many waivers and releases needing signatures. Pencils are great for our underwater slates and accident management slate. Highlighters and markers come in handy too. I keep them all in a container if they leak then I have not ruined the inside of the pocket. Plus if they are in a container they are less likely to break from being bumped.

Calculator – Another great tool to have in your go-kit is a calculator. This is great when doing MOD calculations of gases, volume/pressure formulas, air consumption formulas, kick cycle formulas, etc. If I’m wet I do not want to use my phone’s calculator, I want a simple one that can get ruined and I won’t cry about it.

SIDE POCKET 2 (LEFT OR RIGHT)

Sunscreen – We don’t want to look like the Crypt-Keeper in our 40’s, so use sunscreen and lots of it!

Keys, wallet & phone – The side pocket is a good, accessible pocket for these items.

FRONT POCKET

Teaching Slates – I keep both the confined water and open water teaching slates for my agency in my go-kit. If I need to conduct a specialty dive or fill in for another instructor, they are always with me.

Accident Management Workslate – To me, this is a must have slate. Not only do I keep it in my go-kit, but I also keep one in my first aid kit and one in my oxygen kit. An Accident Management Slate is a wonderful thing to have to take down notes in the event of an incident, and anyone can fill it out.

Marine Life Identification Slates – I think the slate that has seen the most use over the years is my marine life identification slates. I used to have this in my gear bag, but it kept getting so scratched up and dented, that I put it in the front pocket of my go-kit and it has been great there.

Of course there are PLENTY of other things that could be added or included in your own kit. Dive locations, dive activities, weather, facilities used, etc. all play a part in what you keep in your go-kit. If you don’t have a go-kit start assembling it today, it will make your job as a dive pro a whole lot easier.

How to Defog a Diving Mask

By Tec Clark 9 Comments

Why Does a Mask Fog?
First, what is happening when a mask “fogs”? Simply put the “fogging” effect you see on the inside of the mask is condensation. That condensation is present due to the water vapor in the air (humidity) meeting with the cooler glass (or plastic) lens and forming microscopic water droplets on the lens. This is similar to you pouring a tall glass of iced tea inside your kitchen. With our modern home air conditioning units our cool dry air conditioned house may have 40% to 60% humidity. When you look at your glass of tea, there may be a little condensation or wetness on the outside of the glass. But, as soon as you go outside (especially in a tropical environment), you’ll notice your glass looks like it’s sweating. Big water droplets appear, coalesce (join together) and run down the glass where a big water ring forms on the table. In this case, the temperature of the glass and contents did not change, but the outside air has now changed to about 80% to 90% humidity. So, the more water vapor in the air, the more condensation on the outside of the glass.

How these microscopic water droplets form inside a mask is factored by the surface tension on the lens, the humidity of the air inside the mask, and the temperature of the water. The use of a surfactant like commercial anti-fog or defogger solutions or even spit reduces the surface tension smoothing out the droplets on the lens. When condensation takes place on a surface that has surfactant applied it is less visible since the droplets coalesce creating a uniform moisture layer. That uniform moisture layer is easier to see through than the “fog” effect of microscopic water droplets.
So, what surfactants are available for de-fogging your mask? Well, there are a few considerations. But first we must understand the importance of “treating a mask” that is brand new prior to its first use.

How To Pre-Treat a Mask
First, many times when a diver experiences consistent mask fogging it is because there is something on the lens which enhances the fogging effect. This substance could be the original residue from the manufacturing process as seen with new masks, or it could be as simple as a little sunscreen was on ones finger when they applied defog to his or her mask. In these cases we need to “prep” or “pre-treat” the mask prior to its use. This is a special process, so to learn how to do it see my article and two-part video How to Pre-Treat a New Dive Mask.
Now, treating the mask won’t prevent your mask from fogging on each dive, so we have to defog our mask prior to each use. Here are a few methods.

Methods of Defogging a Mask
1. Commercial Defog Products – AKA “mask defog” is commercially available in just about every dive center. A couple products I have used and like are the McNett/AquaSeal Sea Gold® Defog and 500PSI® Mask Defogger. Priced each around $6-$10 dollars per bottle their value comes from how good and efficient they work. Both come in small two ounce sizes, and since small drops are used at time a two ounce bottle can last the typical diver quite a while with its advertised hundreds of applications per bottle. Plus, one application may last two to three dives. • Simply put one drop on the inside lens of a DRY mask and rub evenly with clean fingers (no sunscreen residue – sunscreen will remove the surfactant).
• Rinse briefly in either fresh or salt water.
• NOTE: DO NOT rub the lens or touch the lens during or after rinsing.
2. Spit – There’s nothing more fun than welling up a big one and planting it in your mask to be rubbed around! For some, this is downright disgusting. Whatever your take on the method, it actually works and remains one of the more common methods for defogging a mask. Saliva makes for an okay surfactant. It’s easy and cheap albeit gross. However, it does not last as long commercial defog products and usually needs to be applied just prior to every dive. The method of application is similar to the commercial defog:
• Simply work up some saliva in your mouth and spit on the inside lens of a DRY mask and rub evenly with clean fingers (no sunscreen residue– sunscreen will remove the surfactant).
• Rinse briefly in either fresh or salt water.
• NOTE: DO NOT rub the lens or touch the lens during or after rinsing.
A couple points worth noting about spit. 1. Some divers and dive professionals strongly discourage the spit method for defogging the mask. They claim that the high bacterial content in saliva is bad for eyes. But consider this, reports of eye infections associated with diving are rare. And, we have to remember that a slightly coated lens that has been rinsed simply does not have a high likelihood of getting into eyes – even when doing partial and full-flooded mask clears. Compare that to the plenty of waterborne bacteria in the ocean, lakes, freshwater springs and even swimming pools. Doing full-flooded mask clears or mask removal and replacement will expose the eyes to far greater amounts of bacteria, than that of the fine saliva coating on a mask lens. 2. Under NO circumstances should you spit in a mask and then rinse it in the rinse bucket of a dive boat! This is an almost certain way to spread viruses! The rinse bucket on a charter dive boat should be reserved exclusively for those using commercial defog or the dive boats’ preferred defog solutions. All it takes is one sick person spitting in a mask and briefly dunking it in the rinse bucket to contaminate the bucket.
3. Baby Shampoo – Here is a defog solution that is catching on in popularity. Baby shampoo is inexpensive, comes in travel size containers, is biodegradable, and won’t sting the eyes. It can be applied directly in small amounts or mixed with water and delivered through a spray bottle. Many charter boat operators are going with the spray bottle solution next to the rinse bucket. The steps, you guessed it, are pretty much the same as above:
• Simply dab or squirt the baby shampoo on the inside lens of a DRY mask and rub evenly with clean fingers (no sunscreen residue– sunscreen will remove the surfactant).
• Rinse briefly in either fresh or salt water.
• NOTE: DO NOT rub the lens or touch the lens during or after rinsing.  Be cautious of swishing the solution during the rinse and dumping it out on the deck of the boat. The soapy nature of the shampoo can create a very slippery deck.

Another NOTE: You may have noticed I keep saying use on a DRY lens. Go back to the first paragraph about surface tension and surfactants. If water is present on a lens before a surfactant is used, it will not work as well. Sometimes you notice just one or two spots on a lens is continuously fogging. Many times that is a result of defog or spit being applied to an already wet mask where water spots were already present. As an instructor trainer I often play a student during an instructor or divemaster class. I will intentionally wet my mask before putting whatever method of defog the instructor candidate tells me to use. Then, underwater my mask fogs over and over again totally confusing and frustrating the candidate. Ah… that’s good fun! Okay, in fairness I am also employing another instructor trainer problem solving challenge – exhaling through the nose increases the likelihood of mask fogging – which leads us to our final point.

Avoid Exhaling Through Your Nose – The air between your face and mask lens remains warm and moist. And with an occasional puff out your nose to equalize your mask as you descend, the airborne water vapor collects on the lens and disperses if there is a proper surfactant in place. But, if one were to continuously exhale through their nose, now there is a continuous supply of warmer and highly humid air. The stagnant air temperature warmed by the face is also cooled by the water temperature affecting the glass lens and the skirt. However, air that is exhaled from the lungs is substantially warmer and has a relative humidity of 100%. This means an ever increasing amount of condensation will form, eventually washing away inadequate surfactant like spit or inadequately applied surfactant. There are many reasons why divers exhale through their nose: a poor fit or leak lets water enter the mask and the diver regularly has to clear the mask by exhaling. Most divers do not efficiently clear their mask with just enough air to get the water out. Instead, it is a dramatic production complete with large exhalations of air into the mask. Another issue is for divers that have a sinus condition. Mucous production discomfort forces them to exhale into the mask. For others, a mask that is too tight is temporally relieved on face when exhaled air through the nose pushes the mask off the face ever so slightly. Another issue is overexertion, the harder a diver breathes the more likely for the nasal tracts to engage exhaling air into the mask. And, of course, we are all nose breathers primarily. For many, shutting off the nose breathing is difficult and they incorrectly inhale through their mouth and exhale through their nose. So focus just on inhalations and exhalations through the mouth only.

Whew… I know this was more information than you were expecting. But knowing why your mask is fogging will really help you understand what changes you need to make and what tools you can now use to prevent your mask from fogging.

How to Pre-Treat a New Dive Mask

By Tec Clark 23 Comments

I have seen it countless times; a diver with a new mask so fogged you can’t even see his eyes – even after repeated applications of a defog solution! This can be extremely frustrating and even dangerous. What is happening here with new masks is that during the manufacturing process a thin film of silicone accumulates on the mask lens. This silicone is resistant to any of the conventional de-fogging measures. The solution is to “pre-treat” or “prep” the mask by removing this film prior to its use.

1. To remove the film, use a slightly abrasive agent like toothpaste. Avoid gel type toothpaste and go for common white toothpaste. NOTE: THIS IS FOR GLASS LENSES ONLY, NOT PLASTIC (POLYCARBONATE) LENSES. Plastic lens masks, such as the freediving favorite AquaSphere Sphera mask, scratch easily and may even come with an anti-fog agent already applied to the lens. Toothpaste, or other abrasive agents, as well as fingernails may scratch and ruin plastic lenses! If you decide to pre-treat your plastic (polycarbonate) lens with toothpaste, do so at your own risk. One way to minimize scratching plastic (polycarbonate) lenses is to use a soft, wet washcloth and rub lightly in a circular motion.

2. Take a thimble-sized amount of toothpaste and rub it on both sides of the DRY lenses. Give it a good circular rubbing with your CLEAN fingers.

3. Rinse the lens while rubbing away the toothpaste. Note that toothpaste may accumulate in the edges, so use a little more water pressure if needed to remove it, or you may use a soft, wet washcloth.

4. Once the toothpaste is rinsed away, DRY the lens with a clean towel or rag.

5. Repeat these steps, drying the lens in between each application, 5 to 7 times.

Watch the very detailed and very informational two-part video series:

A couple items for you to note: Some instructors say not to use mint toothpaste as it will sting the eyes. This may be true, but a very thorough rinsing after each application should be fine.

A note on SoftScrub®: Also, many instructors say to use an abrasive cleanser like SoftScrub® to remove the film. SoftScrub® claims it is safe to use on glass but I am not a fan of abrasive cleansers for treating a mask. They have several chemicals that may be harsh on the silicone skirt and harsh on the skin. And, if a mint flavoring can sting the eyes if a little is left in the edges, imagine a cleanser – that could really be problematic. If you decide to go with a SoftScrub® cleanser to pre-treat your mask, follow the method above and in the video, using a very sparing amount, rinsing and drying thoroughly. DO NOT use SoftScrub® products that contain BLEACH! And DO NOT use SoftScrub® on plastic (polycarbonate) lenses! Again, it is best to avoid the abrasive cleanser and go with plain ole toothpaste.

A note on Fire: Floating around in the cyber-expert world is a technique of using fire to burn off the residue coating on a lens. DO NOT DO THIS! There is no need for this procedure as there are simply too many things that can go wrong and could easily ruin your mask.

Be safe, gentle and conservative when pre-treating your mask. And use some good common sense – like no fire, nor bleach. Following these steps and the instructions in the videos should get your mask ready to go! Remember, that pre-treating the mask does not prevent it from fogging on every dive. You will still need to de-fog your mask properly before each and every dive. For more information on that, see my article How to Defog a Diving Mask.

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